The Japanese kimono is a quintessential garment and despite changing fashion over the years, it’s still seen as an icon of Japan. Literally meaning ‘worn thing’, it’s had a prominent place in the history of Japan as the garment of choice for much of society.
The history of the Japanese kimono
Originating around the 3rd century, there are records of a one-cloth garment worn by both men and women. This is considered the starting point for the Japanese kimono as we now know it. For women, it started as the kantoi, a sleeveless garment. This then evolved into the kosode, which had small sleeves.
A lot of the garments at the time were still influenced by Chinese culture and as it became a more specifically Japanese garment, it adapted with each era. The lengths of the sleeves changed and the different layers evolved as well to become comfortable.
The difference between the styles varied more between men’s and women’s garments as society shifted during the Edo period (1603-1868). Men’s garments and in particular the kimono, continued to be more practical and therefore the colours were often more subdued. As women were considered to be on the ‘private’ side of society there was freedom to make choices around colours and styles, as there was little need for practicality.
The kosode finally became the kimono in the Meiji era (1868-1912) and changes have been more focused around patterns and the style of wearing a kimono rather than any major changes in the shape of the garment itself.
The kimono is most famously associated with geisha, who wear their kimono with elegance and professionalism as they entertain their guests.
Influencing the world
As Japan opened up to the world in the 18th century, inspiration from Japan travelled with the trade ships. As a result, Japanese fashion influenced various parts of European fashion as part of the Japonism movement.
Even today the kimono continues to influence fashion designers around the world. Alexander McQueen is one of the most notable admirers of the kimono, incorporating it into his clothing ranges over the years.
On a lighter note, the kimono influenced many of the costumes in the Star Wars series, the original itself being heavily influenced by Akira Kurosawa’s film “The Hidden Fortress”. George Lucas drew upon many elements from Japanese culture and cinema, particularly its fashion.
The Japanese kimono today
Nowadays, the Japanese kimono tends to be reserved for more formal occasions and the yukata is more commonly worn at festivals, as it’s a lighter and cheaper alternative.
They are also sometimes made out of more synthetic fabrics since silk is expensive. Some fashion designers in Japan have adapted it for youth culture in more inventive ways and with a few exhibitions around the globe, it’s being revisited as a symbol of Japan.
You can even get quite cheap secondhand kimonos in Harajuku, so why not treat yourself and see what unique twist you can put on this traditional garment!
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